The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of a surfactant is a method of ranking surfactants and arranging them into groups having similar properties. Originally developed by Griffin in 1949 for ethoxylated fatty alcohol type nonionic surfactants, one simply calculated the weight % of the ethylene oxide groups in the molecule and divided by 5. Thus, the water soluble (hydrophilic) part of the molecule is compared to the oil soluble (lipophilic) part. Various surfactant properties are associated with specific HLB values as noted in the Chart below. As an overview, surfactants with higher HLB values are detergents and foamers, while those with lower HLB values are emulsifiers.
Because of the general utility of the HLB system, many surfactants that are not ethoxylated or have other water-soluble groups have been added over the years by comparing their emulsification properties to surfactants with known HLB’s.
HLB Range Application HLB Range Behavior when added to water
1.5 - 3 Defoamer, stabilizer 1 - 4 Not dispersible
3 - 6 W/O emulsifier 3 - 6 Poor dispersion
7 - 9 Wetting agent 6 - 8 Milky dispersion after shaking
8 - 18 O/W emulsifier 8 - 10 Stable milky dispersion
13 -15 Detergent 10 - 13 Translucent to clear dispersion
15 -18 Solubilizer > 13 Clear solution
Wikipedia Link: Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
Required HLB’s listed for many commonly used ingredients
HLB Table
Surfactant/Emulsifier HLB
Ceteareth-20 15
Cetearyl Alcohol 16
Cetearyl Glucoside 11
Ceteth-10 13
Ceteth-2 5
Ceteth-20 16
Cocamide MEA 14
Coco Glucosides 13
Glyceryl Laurate 5
Glyceryl Stearate 4
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 11
Glycol Distearate 1
Glycol Stearate 3
Isoceteth-20 16
Isosteareth-20 15
Laureth-23 [ 17
Laureth-4 [ 10
Lauryl Glucoside 12
Lecithin-4 4
Lecithin-7 7
Lecithin-9 9
Oleth-10 12
Oleth-2 5
Oleth-20 15
PEG-100 Stearate 19
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides 10
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 15
PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 11
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 6
PEG-4 Dilaurate 6
PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate 9
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides 15
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 10
PEG-7 Olivate 11
PEG-8 Dioleate 8
PEG-8 Laurate 13
PEG-8 Oleate 12
PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate 19
Polysorbate 20 17
Polysorbate 21 13
Polysorbate 60 15
Polysorbate 61 10
Polysorbate 65 11
Polysorbate 80 15
Polysorbate 81 10
Polysorbate 85 11
Sorbitan Isostearate 5
Sorbitan Laurate 9
Sorbitan Monooleate 4
Sorbitan Monostearate 5
Sorbitan Oleate 4
Sorbitan Sesquioleate 4
Sorbitan Stearate 5
Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate 6
Sorbitan Trioleate 2
Stearamide MEA 11
Steareth-100 19
Steareth-2 5
Steareth-20 15
Steareth-21 16
Oil / Required HLB
Algae Oil 8
Almond Oil 6
Anhydrous Lanolin USP 10
Apricot 7
Apricot Kernal Oil 7
Argan (Argania Spinosum) Oil 11
Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil 7
Babassu Oil 8
Beeswax 12
Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil 7
Brazil Nut Oil 8
Broccoli Seed Oil (Brassica Oleracea Italica) 8
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 13
Canola Oil (and) Fragrance 7
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 11
Carnauba (Copernicia Cerifera) Wax 12
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Root Extract 6
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil 6
Castor (Ricinus Communis) Oil 14
Ceresin 8
Cetyl Esters 10
Cetyl Palmitate 10
Chia Seed Oil 7
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Oil 8
Cupuacu Butter 5
Cyclomethicone 8
Cyclomethicone 8
Diisopropyl Adipate 9
Dimethicone 5
Dimethicone (Silicone) 5
Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Hips Oil 7
Emu Oil 8
Evening Primrose (Oenothera Biennis) Oil 7
Fractionated coconut 11
Garcinia Indica (Kokum) Seed Butter 8
Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil 7
Grapeseed 7
Green Tea Oil 7
Hemp (Cannabis Sativa) Seed Oil 7
Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil 9
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 4
Shorea Stenoptera Seed (Illipe) Butter 8
Isopropyl Myristate 12
Isopropyl Palmitate 12
Jamaican Black Castor Oil 14
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 6
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil 7
Lanolin 10
Lanolin USP 10
Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) oil 7
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil 8
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil 7
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 7
Mineral Oil 10
Mineral Oil NF 10
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil 7
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 8
Myristyl Myristate 8
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 7
Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil 6
Petrolatum 7
Petrolatum USP 7
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 7
Propylene Glycol Isostearate 3
Retinyl Palmitate 6
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil 7
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract 7
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil 8
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil 7
Sesame Oil NF 7
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 8
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil 7
Squalane 11
Squalene 12
Stearic Acid 15
Stearyl Alcohol 16
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 7
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 7
Tocopherol 6
Vitamin E 6
Trictum Vulgare (Wheat Germ) Oil 7